Nepal Mountain Climbing
Mountaineering In Nepal
How much can be said about the Himalayan giants encountered in Everest in Hillary StepNepal, or how much can be added to the legendary climbs that have taken place on the eight of the highest summits of the world that are in Nepal? Indeed, the top of the world is on the Tibetan Nepalese border, known as Sagarmatha under its south face and Chomolongma on the northern side. But Mt. Everest as westerners have named it barely keeps under its shadow all the other mountains above 8,000 meters and only its prestige as the highest makes it a dream destination to all climbers in the world.
Expeditions have become big business and climbers now approach the job with the appropriate degree of seriousness and dedication. It is not uncommon for expeditions to refuse trekkers admission into their base camps. The team members do not have the time or energy to entertain tourists, and there have also been incidents of trekkers taking souvenirs from among the expensive and essential items that often lie around such camps.
There are three seasons for mountaineering in Nepal. The permission season from April to early June was once the only season during which expeditions climbed major peaks. In the 1950s all expeditions were in the lull before the storm period that occurs between the end of the winter winds and the beginning of the monsoon snow. Cold and high View from Everest Summitwinds drove back the Swiss expedition to Mt Everest in 1952 when they attempted to climb the mountain in the autumn. It was not until 1973 that an expedition success fully climbed Everest in autumn.
Now the autumn or post monsoon season of September and October is a period of many successful expeditions. In 1979 the ministry of tourism established a season for winter mountaineering. It is bitterly cold at high elevations from November to February, but recent advances in equipment technology have allowed several teams to accomplish what was thought before to be impossible a winter ascent of a Himalayan peak. Climbing during the monsoon, from June to august, is not practical from the Nepal side, though the north face of Everest has been climbed during august.
Expeditions to any of the highest mountains of Nepal, including all those ranging in between 7,000 and 8,000m requires long-term planning and through organization. We have categorised mountaineering into three different part; peaks above 8000m, peaks below 8000m and trekking peaks. Please visit related site and if you didn?t find what you are looking for, don?t go away! Just write us an email we will back with an answer of your mail within 24 hours.
Some Guidelines For Expeditions in Nepal
Asking for climbing permission:
The following documents have to be sent to the Ministry of Tourism, Mountaineering Division, Katmandu, Nepal or Trekking Team office directly;
- Completed Application
- Endorsement of the National Alpine Club.(if there is no Alpine Club, endorsement of the Government)
- Short biography of all members of the expedition (with photograph)
- Map and/ or photograph of the mountain including climbing route.
- Approach route map.
Since climbing permission is granted on ''first come first serve'' basis, itCamping at Everest Base Camp is therefore necessary to enlist the expedition''s name for the particular mountain for the particular season of the year. The listing is made when the completed application form with all documents are received by the Ministry of Tourism. Incase all documents mentioned above cannot be submitted at a time, booking is possible with only the completed application by the expedition leader. No fee is required to enlist the expedition''s name.
Expedition with Trekking Team Nepal P. Ltd:
Trekking Team Nepal P. Ltd. is a government recognized trekking agency of Nepal is essential as a local liaison medium to work the expedition in Katmandu (Nepal) as per mountaineering Expedition Regulations. Such Appointment can be made prior to or after getting climbing permission from the Ministry of Tourism.
Payment of Climbing Permit fee (royalty):
The leader of the expedition team is required to compulsorily pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (Royalty) within TWO MONTHS of the date of permission. Incase of Failure of the payment of royalty within two months such permission may be CANCELLED.
The climbing permit fee (Royalty) must be paid directly to the Ministry of Tourism or Trekking Team P. Ltd. in its favor either by bank draft of bank transfers, Payable in convertible foreign currency.
Preparation in Nepal for Expedition
Import of foods and equipment:
Invoices and airway bill or bill of lading (four copies each) have to be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for import license and customs Everest climbing above Ice fallclearance for the import of expedition foods and equipment to Nepal. CIF Katmandu value is to be clearly mentioned in the invoice.
As Walkie-talkies, Transceiver (Wireless) sets and other communication equipment are controlled articles in Nepal. Please declare these articles in the customs office (at entry point) that you wish to bring into Nepal for use during climbing period. Such equipments have to be collected from the customs office by receiving permission letter from the Ministry of communication. For the clearance of the equipment completed application form and invoice with catalogue or specifications (four copies each) should be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism which are latter to be sent to other concerned government offices.
Filming or Documentary:
Permission is required for filming or documentary. The Ministry of Communication must be contacted any time for queries about filming in Nepal. Please let us know your requirement, we will send all the details and the cost of the filming that you are going to shoot.
The Royalty and size of the Expedition team "Rules effective from 1996 Spring"
More than one team maybe permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by each separate route in one season. A royalty of US $ 50,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of 7 members. The team may include 5 more members provided if it pays extra US $ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be grantedView from Summit of Naya Khanga (Trekking Peak) three months visas. Additional US $ 20,000 will have to be paid the team willing to scale Sagarmatha by normal South East Ridge route.
In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 7 members for the minimum royalty, and 5 more members for the additional royalty. The team already permitted to scale Sagarmath will have to pay US $ 10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay additional US $ 20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to normal South East Ridge route.
For peak other than Sagarmatha, the team will have to pay additional 25% of the yoyalty in US $ to change the ascent route. Expedition team must complete all necessary adminstrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage from Nepal.
"Effective from 1992" the Ministry of Tourism has fixed the price of the deposit for the management of Garbage''s by each mountaineering team who tries to climb any peak in Khumbu region are as follows;
* Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) US $ 4,000 or equivalent (Rs)
* Other peaks above 8000 meter US $ 3000 or equivalent (Rs)
* All peaks less than 8000 meters US $ 2000 or equivalent (Rs)
- Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) US $ 4,000 or equivalent (Rs) Other peaks above
8000 meter US $ 3000 or equivalent (Rs)
- All peaks less than 8000 meters US $ 2000 or equivalent (Rs)
Expedition peak fee from June 2008
A. Name of Mountain: Everest (8,848m) Climbing Route: South East Ridge (Normal Route)
Mountaineering Royalty Fee (In US $) "subject to change"
| PAX|| SPRING||AUTUMN || WINTER/SUMMER|
| 1|| 25,000|| 12,500|| 6,250|
| 2|| 40,000|| 20,000|| 10,000|
| 3|| 48,000|| 24,000|| 12,000|
| 4|| 56,000|| 28,000|| 14,000|
| 5|| 60,000|| 30,000|| 15,000|
| 6|| 66,000|| 33,000|| 16,500|
| 7|| 70,000|| 35,000|| 17,500|
| Per Extra Climber|
(One Expedition Team has
15 members in maximum)
| 10,000|| 5,000|| 2,500|
Days: 49 Grade:
Expedition at Annapurna Himal stretch from the Kali Gandaki in the west to the Marshyangdi in the east. Four summits make up Annapurna with the entire massif forming a barrier on the northern side of the Pokhara Valley in Nepal.
Days: 65 Grade:
Kanchenjunga expedition peak is the third highest mountain in the world. This is a huge mountain mass, and many satellite peaks rise from its narrow ridges. It is massif is complex and culminates in three summits.
Days: 49 Grade:
Lhotse has one of the smallest topographic prominence values of any official eight-thousander, as it rises only 610 m above the South Col. Hence it is often seen as a minor eight-thousander.
Days: 58 Grade:
Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world. located in north central Nepal. Offer topography of twisting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls. Along the main crest, several pyramid-shaped peaks.
Days: 59 Grade:
Mount Everest is the tallest point on Earth, standing 8,848m tall, standing 5 and 1/2 miles above sea level. It is known in Tibet as Chomolungma. Climbing through Sherpa settlements and Khumbu Glecier.
Days: 60 Grade:
Makalu expedition peak is the fifth highest mountain and is located east of Mount Everest. Makalu is considered a technical mountain for climbing, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful.